Sunday, March 2, 2014

My first DIY.. a wallet



At the end of February half of my family has their birthdays. We are not really big in celebrating birthdays and rarely give each other presents.

But since I dabble in DIY, I wanted to sew my sister a wallet.
 

sewing instruction

sewing instruction

sewing instruction


















The wallet turned out to be quite ok, but I sewed it WAY too big and so the wallet is kind of impractical. The width would be alright, but I was too generous with the length.



Anyway following for everyone who wants to try it (but with handy measurements) or only wants to get some ideas.

PLEASE dont be mad, if it is a little chaotic. I started to sew the wallet without a plan and tried to document every single step. You can do a lot of things better and next time I will definitely do that. Especially with the sewing instruction. But maybe I can help some of you a little with my bumpy attempt. 



I used fake suede leather and a thin cotton wool fabric for the lining as materials for the wallet. Of course you can use whatever you want, but the outer material should be a little more robust.

I really wanted leather, which is not cheap and as I found out, rarely to never sold in less than a meter. My first try shouldnt be that expensive and other than that I doubt that my sewing machine can work through real leather.



In comparison the fake suede leather is really cheap and looks really pretty. We will see, how long it will last. For the handling the sales person suggested to use a very thin needle, favorable 60 or 70.



Explanation of the picture:

BLACK LINE already sewed seam

BLUE LINE needed to sew seam

YELLOW LINE spacing

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sewing instruction
PART A

sewing instruction




PART A:



1.     Cut 2 squares of 3.5 x 3.5 (incl. seam allowance) for the card pocket. These measurements work for the size of credit cards. On one side turn over both pieces. Thus sew together right on right, turn and stitch.











sewing instruction

     1.     Cut a piece of lining at the same width as the card pockets. On my wallet that would be 9. But as I said, it is better to make it a little smaller and make less card pockets or sew the pockets closer together.


      2.     Tuck one card pocket onto the piece of lining on the under side and sew it on, so the card wont slip through later on.The quilted side is on top.

So you know what height to sew the first pocket, its best to lie all card pockets over another. 

For that matter the stitched sides of the pockets lie with a distance of approx. 0.4 apart from each other. The last pocket should lie edge on edge of the lining.

 
With 5 pockets the height of the first pocket you have to attach is around 4.3 from the bottom edge.




sewing instruction


4.     With the distance of approx. 0.4 attach the rest of the pockets downward after another on the lining.


5.     I attached 5 pockets, whereas the height of the leather at the bottom pocket is 4.3. The card pockets lining stays 3.5 x 3.5 so the card can poke out.
 
I just made the bottom pocket bigger, because I thought it was prettier. Of course you can make it as big as the other ones, so you save on the length of the wallet.





sewing instruction


     6.     Cut out a piece of leather at a size, so it overlaps the lining on each side for about 0.8.


      7.     Tuck in the bottom edge of the leather twice like a hem and sew it on.












8.     Cut off the lower edges, so it is easier to tuck in the other sides over the card pockets.


 9.     On the upper side I turned over the fabric, so that the seam allowance lies in between and then stitched it.


sewing instruction
2 x PART A
sewing instruction

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sewing instruction

Part B:



10.     The measurements of the lining for the coin pocket are 8.3 x 8.3. I strengthened the lining with another fabric in the same size. Out of the leather you cut 2 pieces at 8.3 x 5.1.

11.     Now the zipper gets sewed on.
It is prettier and probably easier to sew on the rights side of the outer fabric on the right side of the zipper and the right side of the lining fabric on the left side of the zipper. But I found that out later.

 
In my case I turned over 0.4 one edge of the lining and tuck on the left side of the zipper. 
Tuck in the long side of the outer fabric for 0.4 too and tuck on the ride side of the zipper, so the zipper lies in between both fabrics. Then sew along the blue line.



sewing instruction
sewing instruction

















12.     Open the zipper and proceed as at step 11.



sewing instruction

sewing instruction
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sewing instruction


sewing instruction
PART B on PART C


Part C:



13.     For the inside of the wallet cut a piece of fabric with the measurements of 7 x 9 (incl. seam allowance) and a piece to lining fabric with the measurements 5.5 x 9. Sew both pieces on the long side together.


14.     Then place the coin pocket on the lining fabric, so the zipper lies along the seam of fabric and lining fabric.


15.     Now sew the coin pocket on both sides along the lining fabric.




sewing instruction
PART A on PART D

Part D:



   16.     For the other pockets left and right on the inside of the wallet cut a piece lining fabric twice and a piece leather fabric twice with the same measurements of 5.5 x 9 (incl. seam allowance).


   17.     Sew each a piece lining fabric and a piece leather fabric on the long side together.







18.     Now place both Parts A on the leather fabric of Part D, so that the distance to the edges on the broad sides are the same. The distance between the long side of the credit card pockets and the seam of the lining fabric is 0.4. CAREFUL! Later on the pockets will lie a cross from each other, so attach the credit card pockets on Part D in different directions.


19.     Sew on Part A on both broad sides and the bottom long side along the already existing seam of the hemline. So a pocket between Part A and Part D forms.


20.     Turn over Part D on the seam.

sewing instruction
21.     Now you can also decide in what direction the card pockets should point, before you place both Parts D left and right on Part C with the turned over sides to each other.


Lie one piece of Part D on the coin pocket a little under the zipper, so that the zipper pokes out a little bit. That way it doesnt give you any troubles when you open or close it.

 
The upper edge (where you can see the pink lining) should overlap the zipper of the coin pocket a little bit too.  


Attach the other Part D with a distance of at least 0.8 from the zipper on the same height as the card pockets on the opposite side, so you can close the wallet later on.

The card pockets should now point in the right direction.

sewing instruction
22.     Tuck both Parts D along the broad side on Part C and sew narrow-edged onto the upper edge of the card pockets on Part C.


   23.     So the seaming of the edge will later be easier, cut off the overlapping fabric on the long side of Part C. In doing so cut the long sides of Part C along the upper edge of the card pockets and 0.4 of the bottom edge of the card pockets.  


   24.     Now also sew the other broad side of the pockets narrow-edged on Part C.
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sewing instruction


25.     The length of the zipper is 11.8, so you can open the pocket over the corner.

 
Tuck on the zipper right on right on the broad side of the wallet over the corner. When you close the zipper it ends at the upper edge of the card pockets.


Cut in the zipper at the corner, so the corner looks prettier.

sewing instructionsewing instruction














  26.     For the pocket cut 2 pieces of lining fabric with the measurements 5.1 x 9.4. To make the inner pocket a little robuster, I cut another piece to strengthened it like the coin pocket.


      27.     Turn over one long side of the lining for 0.4 an tuck on the left side of the zipper. Continue around the corner, until the end of the zipper and sew on the zipper.

sewing instruction
sewing instruction













    28.     Tuck the second part of the lining on the right side on the of the left side of the zipper.


sewing instruction
sewing instruction












     29.     Because I didnt have a big enough piece of leather, I had to sew the outer sider of the wallet out of two pieces.

 
It is definitely more beautiful to sew the outer side out of one piece. Thus the measurements would be like Part C 9 x 12.5 + 0.8-1.2 sewing allowance on each side to seam the edges.

 
Tuck in the long side of the outer fabric at 0.4 too and pin on the right side of the zipper, so now the zipper lies between the lining fabric and the outer fabric.


sewing instruction
sewing instruction













    30.     Before the zipper is sewed on completely, put on the strap to close the wallet, because it is sewed between the zipper and the outer fabric.


For the strap cut a piece of leather and a piece of lining fabric with 4.3 length and 1.6 width. Round the edges on one broad side. Gladly you can take another fabric to strengthen it, so the button is sitting firmer later on.


Sew together the long sides right on right and the broad side with the rounded edges and turn over.

 
In the bag of metal press button is an instruction and all tools you need, to mount it on. You only need a hammer.


A press button consists of 2 pieces on the top and 2 pieces on the bottom.

Punch a hole at the desired spot and attach the two upper pieces with the help of the enclosed caliper and the hammer at the punched spot



sewing instruction
sewing instruction














sewing instruction


31.     Place the strap centered between the zipper and the outer fabric on the wallet and now sew on the zipper.

sewing instruction






 
32. Sew together the inner pocket of the coin pocket and the still open side.

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33.     Who doesnt have the outer side of the wallet in one piece, sew on the rest of the outer part. In this case the measurements of the missing piece is  8.6 x 10.6 (incl. 0.8 sewing allowance.)


sewing instruction

sewing instruction
sewing instruction




34.     Now seam the long sides. Therefor tuck in the sewing allowance of 0.8 up to the edge, then tuck in another time over the edge and pin.


Tuck in the upper end of the of the zipper of the outer fabric and then seam over the long edge and quilt narrow-edged at the inside of the seam.

sewing instruction

sewing instruction
sewing instruction
sewing instruction




     35.     Before you seam the broad side, pin the bottom part of the press button on the outer fabric, so you cant see it on the inside of the wallet


     36.     Lastly simply sew the broad side, as if you turned over the fabric. That means tuck in the sewing allowance, so it lies in between both fabrics and then seam the fabrics narrow-edged.


sewing instruction





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