At the end of February half of my family has
their birthdays. We are not really big in celebrating birthdays and rarely give
each other presents.
But since I dabble in DIY, I wanted to sew my
sister a wallet.
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The wallet turned out to be quite ok, but I
sewed it WAY too big and so the wallet is kind of impractical. The width would
be alright, but I was too generous with the length.
Anyway … following for everyone who wants to try it (but with handy
measurements) or only wants to get some ideas.
PLEASE don’t be mad, if it is a little chaotic. I started to sew the wallet
without a plan and tried to document every single step. You can do a lot of
things better and next time I will definitely do that. Especially with the
sewing instruction. But maybe I can help some of you a little with my bumpy
attempt.
I used fake suede leather and a thin cotton wool
fabric for the lining as materials for the wallet. Of course you can use
whatever you want, but the outer material should be a little more robust.
I really wanted leather, which is not cheap and
as I found out, rarely to never sold in less than a meter. My first try shouldn’t be that expensive and other than that I
doubt that my sewing machine can work through real leather.
In comparison the fake suede leather is really
cheap and looks really pretty. We will see, how long it will last. For the
handling the sales person suggested to use a very thin needle, favorable 60 or
70.
Explanation of the picture:
BLACK LINE already sewed seam
BLUE LINE needed to sew seam
YELLOW LINE spacing
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PART A |
PART A:
1.
Cut 2 squares of 3.5” x 3.5” (incl. seam
allowance) for the card pocket. These measurements work for the size of credit
cards. On one side turn over both pieces. Thus sew together right on right,
turn and stitch.
1.
Cut a piece of lining at the
same width as the card pockets. On my wallet that would be 9”. But as I said, it is better to make it a
little smaller and make less card pockets or sew the pockets closer together.
2.
Tuck one card pocket onto the
piece of lining on the under side and sew it on, so the card won’t slip through later on.The quilted side is
on top.
So you
know what height to sew the first pocket, it’s best to lie all card pockets over another.
For that matter the stitched sides of the pockets lie with a distance of
approx. 0.4” apart from each
other. The last pocket should lie edge on edge of the lining.
With 5 pockets the height of the first pocket you have to attach is around 4.3” from the bottom edge.
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4.
With the distance of approx.
0.4” attach
the rest of the pockets downward after another on the lining.
5.
I attached 5 pockets, whereas
the height of the leather at the bottom pocket is 4.3”. The card pocket’s
lining stays 3.5” x
3.5” so
the card can poke out.
I just
made the bottom pocket bigger, because I thought it was prettier. Of course you
can
make it as big as the other ones, so you save on the length of the wallet.
6.
Cut out a piece of leather at a
size, so it overlaps the lining on each side for about 0.8”.
7.
Tuck in the bottom edge of the
leather twice like a hem and sew it on.
8.
Cut off the lower edges, so it
is easier to tuck in the other sides over the card pockets.
9.
On the upper side I turned over
the fabric, so that the seam allowance lies in between and then stitched it.
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2 x PART A |
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Part B:
10.
The measurements of the lining
for the coin pocket are 8.3” x 8.3”. I strengthened the
lining with another fabric in the same size. Out of the leather you cut 2
pieces at 8.3” x
5.1”.
It is
prettier and probably easier to sew on the rights side of the outer fabric on
the right side of the zipper and the right side of the lining fabric on the
left side of the zipper. But I found that out later.
In my case
I turned over 0.4” one
edge of the lining and tuck on the left side of the zipper.
Tuck in the long side
of the outer fabric for 0.4” too and tuck on the ride side of the zipper, so the zipper lies in between both
fabrics. Then sew along the blue line.
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12.
Open the zipper and proceed as
at step 11.
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PART B on PART C |
Part C:
13.
For the inside of the wallet
cut a piece of fabric with the measurements of 7”
x 9” (incl. seam allowance) and a piece to lining fabric with the
measurements 5.5” x
9”. Sew both pieces on
the long side together.
14.
Then place the coin pocket on
the lining fabric, so the zipper lies along the seam of fabric and lining
fabric.
15.
Now sew the coin pocket on both
sides along the lining fabric.
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PART A on PART D |
Part D:
16.
For the other pockets left and
right on the inside of the wallet cut a piece lining fabric twice and a piece
leather fabric twice with the same measurements of 5.5”
x 9” (incl. seam allowance).
17.
Sew each a piece lining fabric
and a piece leather fabric on the long side together.
18.
Now place both Parts A on the
leather fabric of Part D, so that the distance to the edges on the broad sides
are the same. The distance between the long side of the credit card pockets and
the seam of the lining fabric is 0.4”.
CAREFUL! Later on the pockets will lie a cross from each other, so attach the
credit card pockets on Part D in different directions.
19.
Sew on Part A on both broad
sides and the bottom long side along the already existing seam of the hemline.
So a pocket between Part A and Part D forms.
20.
Turn over Part D on the seam.
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21.
Now you can also decide in what
direction the card pockets should point, before you place both Parts D left and
right on Part C with the turned over sides to each other.
Lie one
piece of Part D on the coin pocket a little under the zipper, so that the
zipper pokes
out a little bit. That way it doesn’t
give you any troubles when you open or close it.
The upper
edge (where you can see the pink lining) should overlap the zipper of the coin pocket a little bit too.
Attach the
other Part D with a distance of at least 0.8”
from the zipper on the same height as the card pockets on
the opposite side, so you can close the wallet later on.
The card
pockets should now point in the right direction.
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22. Tuck both Parts D along the broad side on Part C and sew narrow-edged onto the upper edge of the card pockets on Part C.
23.
So the seaming of the edge will
later be easier, cut off the overlapping fabric on the long side of Part C. In
doing so cut the long sides of Part C along the upper edge of the card pockets
and 0.4” of
the bottom edge of the card pockets.
24.
Now also sew the other broad
side of the pockets narrow-edged on Part C.
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25.
The length of the zipper is
11.8”, so you can open the
pocket over the corner.
Tuck on
the zipper right on right on the broad side of the wallet over the corner. When
you
close the zipper it ends at the upper edge of the card pockets.
Cut in the
zipper at the corner, so the corner looks prettier.
26.
For the pocket cut 2 pieces of
lining fabric with the measurements 5.1”
x 9.4”.
To make the inner pocket a little robuster, I cut another piece to strengthened
it like the coin pocket.
27.
Turn over one long side of the
lining for 0.4” an
tuck on the left side of the zipper. Continue around the corner, until the end
of the zipper and sew on the zipper.
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28.
Tuck the second part of the
lining on the right side on the of the left side of the zipper.
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29.
Because I didn’t have a big enough piece of leather, I had
to sew the outer sider of the wallet out of two pieces.
It is
definitely more beautiful to sew the outer side out of one piece. Thus the measurements would be like Part C 9“ x 12.5“ + 0.8“-1.2“
sewing allowance on each side to seam the edges.
Tuck in
the long side of the outer fabric at 0.4”
too and pin on the right side of the zipper, so now
the zipper lies between the lining fabric and the outer fabric.
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30.
Before the zipper is sewed on
completely, put on the strap to close the wallet, because it is sewed between
the zipper and the outer fabric.
For the
strap cut a piece of leather and a piece of lining fabric with 4.3” length and 1.6” width. Round the edges
on one broad side. Gladly you can take another fabric to strengthen it, so the button is sitting firmer
later on.
Sew
together the long sides right on right and the broad side with the rounded
edges and
turn over.
In the bag
of metal press button is an instruction and all tools you need, to mount it on.
You
only need a hammer.
A press
button consists of 2 pieces on the top and 2 pieces on the bottom.
Punch a
hole at the desired spot and attach the two upper pieces with the help of the enclosed
caliper and the hammer at the punched spot
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31.
Place the strap centered
between the zipper and the outer fabric on the wallet and now sew on the
zipper.
32. Sew together the inner pocket of the coin pocket and the still open side.
33.
Who doesn’t have the outer side of the wallet in one
piece, sew on the rest of the outer part. In this case the measurements of the
missing piece is 8.6” x 10.6” (incl. 0.8” sewing allowance.)
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34.
Now seam the long sides.
Therefor tuck in the sewing allowance of 0.8”
up to the edge, then tuck in another time over the edge
and pin.
Tuck in
the upper end of the of the zipper of the outer fabric and then seam over the
long edge and quilt narrow-edged at the
inside of the seam.
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35.
Before you seam the broad side,
pin the bottom part of the press button on the outer fabric, so you can’t see it on the inside of the wallet
36.
Lastly simply sew the broad
side, as if you turned over the fabric. That means tuck in the sewing
allowance, so it lies in between both fabrics and then seam the fabrics
narrow-edged.
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